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The type of battery to choose for
your vehicle depends on:
a) Whether your vehicle has a dynamo or an alternator.
Example: An Ambassador with a dynamo would do
well with a hard rubber range battery while an
Ambassador with an alternator would need a poly
propylene battery. b) Your driving pattern, average
running per day. c) Electrical accessories in
the vehicle like A/c, stereo, etc. d) The maintenance
pattern.
 If you are looking to buy batteries
with foreign collaborations, check if:
a) They are suited for Indian conditions. Most foreign
batteries are designed for ideal conditio ns. b)
They gel with the electrical system of your car.
How to get the maximum out of your battery:
a) Get your fan belt, wiring, dynamo and regulator
setting periodically checked. Get your battery serviced
regularly, every month. b) Top up the battery with
distilled water only. Never add acid. c) Keeping
the top of the battery clean and dry is important.
Apply vaseline to cable clamps and terminals. Corrosion,
dirt and moisture cause loss of power. d) Keep the
vent plugs tightly closed. Splashing of electrolyte
could cause current leakage. e) Always keep the
battery fully charged.
Why you should not buy a rebuilt battery:
a) Using re-conditioned batteries is like running
your vehicle on kerosene. They are charged using
commercial acids. b) Re-builders salvage plates
from old batteries and construct a battery. c) Re-built
batteries are not consistent, as they obtain material
from various sources that keep changing. d) A re-builder's
guarantee is a gimmick. If your battery fails he
gives you another re-built battery. e) A low quality
battery will ultimately spoil your vehicle's electrical
system. f) With a re-built battery your vehicle
may require a push start. This gives jerks to the
clutch and transmission rod and can damage them
over a period of time. You will finally end up making
more trips to the garage than your business destinations.
KNOW YOUR CAR BEFORE BUYING IT
Remember these points while buying a used
car:
 • Trust only natural light while checking
for dents or damages. Never check a car at night.
• Consider what a car mechanic has to say about
the car and it's price.
• Watch for rusty portions and dents. Surface blisters
in the paint are a bad sign, indicating that the
panel is about to rust through completely. The car's
bodywork is important.
• Tap with fingers along the bottom edge of the
body. Solid metal bodywork will have a metallic
ring. Quick repairs with a plastic body filler will
give a dull tap.
• Check for jerks and loosening by rolling all windows
up and down, and opening and shutting the doors,
trunk and hood. Any improper fit may indicate that
the car has been hit and the frame or body is permanently
bent.
• Inspect tyres carefully for uneven wear which
is a sign of a bent frame or a worn out suspension.
• Be suspicious of brand new tyres: the old ones
may have indicated bad shock absorbers or bad wheel
alignment.
• If there is excessive tyre wear but the odometer
shows low mileage, the meter has been tampered with.
• Grab the top of each wheel and pull it in and
out. If there is much movement or noise, check for
worn suspension and wheel bearings.
• Push down each corner of the car several times,
then release it. If the car bounces up and down
more than twice, you may need new shocks.
• Check the radiator and battery for cracks, and
proper fluid levels.
• Excessive wear in the trunk cargo area could mean
that the car was used to carry heavy loads, which
ages a car quickly.
• Press down on the brakes. If the pedal goes too
low or sinks to the floor, it means the hydraulic
system is defective.
• Try all accessories at the same time and make
sure they all work.
• Start the engine and listen for unusual noises
that can indicate expensive engine repairs in future.
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