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The Hindu Puneites belong to either Deshasthav,
Konkanastha, Saraswat, Gaudh Saraswat or the Koli
clans. Their traditional fare is unique to their
food habits. The early inhabitants of Pune were
Kolis who settled along the banks of the Mutha
River. In ancient times, traders passing through
the Sahyadri ranges could travel to and fro on
the trade route to the Deccan.The city still reflects
the influence of these passersby. Their influence
to some extent is infested deep into the psyche
of Pune food culture including the Mughal invaders,
Marathas and Peshwas. Today, Poona or Pune as
the city is called now, is a queer mixture of
traditionality and contemporary lifestyle.
Traditional feast
Normally, Puneites do not indulge in lavish
feasts. Their food habits are very basic. This
is visible if you happen to partake in a typical
wedding feast. Aamti (pulses cooked in oil, condiments
and garnished with herbs), Aloo Baji (cooked potatoes),
and at least two to three types of chutneys are
served with the main delicacy, Masale Bhaat (rice
fried with vegetables mostly peas and spices),
chappatis and taak (thin buttermilk served with
freshly ground condiments). Mango pickles, vegetarian
salad, raita, and Kurdai (large spiced wafer that
is fried) are also served. Serving Jhelabi or
Gulab Jamun to your guests is a must. Desserts
vary from Shrikhand (sweet custard) to Amarkhand
(dessert concocted with mango pulp).
Daily menu
Lamb or goat mutton, cooked in aromatic spices,
chicken and fish are a part of the local diet.
Fish is preferred due to its ready availability
(proximity to Mutha River). The Kolis (fisherfolk
clan) eat chicken, mutton apart from fish and
season it with garlic paste and freshly ground
herbs. The Saraswat Brahmins are strictly vegetarian.
Bhakar (roti made out of jowar or bajra) and mango
pickle is the traditional staple diet among the
farming class in rural areas near Pune. Puneites
have a singular fetish for leafy vegetables and
pulses. Masala chutneys are also an important
ingredient of their daily diet. They can reputedly
hand out upto 35 types of chutneys at a time and
are still concocting some more. Their chutneys
are made of fresh food items like coconut, groundnuts,
tamarind, tomatoes or even onions, dried and ground
into paste or powder state to which salt-to-taste
and red chilli, turmeric and ginger powder is
added for flavour. Here's some Theekha-meetha
stuff..... Puran poli (thin chappatis stuffed
with a paste of spiced gram flour and jaggery)
served with fine coconut-chillie (mirchi) chutney
is a favourite brunch when had with masala tea.
A traditional breakfast is basically made of Poha
(fluffed rice with spices) or Sabhudhana Kichdi
(sago rice) and tea. Tea-time savouries are limitless
and one doesn't have to get them from the nearby
bania or grocer. Most Puneites like home-made
stuff. You can try Sone Papdi (flavoured, dry
and sweet mesh that you can pull and eat - a favourite
with kids), Sev (strongly resembling Chinese noodles,
but these are spiced, short and ready-to-eat),
Suttarpheni (like Sev but is sweet) and many more.
Chewing tobacco
Most of the traditional Puneites are hung up
on paan (a sweet or bland concoction wrapped in
betel nut leaf) normally taken after a meal. People
have heard of the Banarasi and Calcutta variety,
though most locals prefer to eat betelnut leaves
with chuna paste, katha powder or tobacco.
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It's festival time
There are different types of sweets in Pune,
like Pedas, milk or chocolate Barfi and Bhalushahis
and Rasmalai. A local favourite, Basundhi is relished
particularly during Ganesh Chaturthi festival.
A day before Diwali, women make a variety of fried
sweets at home, like Shankarpali, Karanji, Anarse
(sweet biscuit made with ground rice), Chakli,
Rava or Basin ladoos, Chewda, etc.
Local fast food fare
Most Puneites are tea drinkers. Amrut Tulyas
or speciality tea vendors are present at every
nook and corner of the city. Vendors like Hemant
Dimdimlee provide tea for just Rs. 2 from six
thirty in the morning to eleven in the night every
day. Once you have identified your favourite Amrut
Tulya and tasted his beverage like a local (without
raising your nose at the crowd around the shop
or the at the lack of five star catering), you
would head straight for a Vadapav Walla - the
local fast food vendor. He sells Batada Wada...(spiced
boiled potatoes dipped in gram flour and fried
in oil)....tossed into Pav (local baked bread)
and served with you guessed...masala chutney or
chillie chutney as you like it. Generally, the
Batada Wada-Pav wallas operate from cart-on-wheels
(called thehla in local lingo) or a shanty shop.
The staple food costs a universal Rs. 4.50. The
other fast foods on the menu are Pav Bhaji, Bhel
and Ragda Patties. By now you are a veteran and
looking for a quick Missal Pav lunch. Missal Pav
is a wholesome concoction of mashed vegetables
served with local bread. There are many speciality
eateries in Pune where you can enjoy local fast
food menu including Phroot Juoos (fruit juice)
Fress ahe.tumchya samor karoon deto! (It's fresh.
I'll make it in front of you), the stall owner
will tell you; and Malai Kulfi (ice cream). The
best place to hit the street for fast foods is
Pashan Road, Chowpatty, Saras Baug and Sambhaji
Park. During the rainy season, Makaiwallahs selling
Makai (corn fruit) laid out neatly on their carts
is not an uncommon sight on the lanes.
The Fast Food Joints
In the past five years almost all fast food
MNCs have opened shop in Pune. There's virtually
every known brand here. You'd be surprised as
to how many a small, developing city like Pune
can hold on to. There's Pizza Hut, Domino's, Papa
Luigis and Smokin Joe's for pizzas. The burger
king McDonald's is also in town. Apart from having
a great time at the many pubs in the city, the
young and old Puneites love to end or even begin
a day at ice cream parlors. For scoops to ice
cream cakes and Sundaes, make a beeline to the
nearest Baskin Robbins or Yankee Doodle outlet
in the city.
The Bakeries
Pune is probably the only city in India which
has so many bakeries that one is reminded of Europe
(strictly for the number of good bakeries here).
There's a virtual brand war on with all of them
vying to sell unique, freshly baked foods across
the counter. There's Baker's Basket, Dorabjee's,
Copper Chocs, German Bakery and Hot Breads . They
have from the regular veggie and non-veggie puffs,
to sausage patties, pancakes, pizzas, lemon or
zeera biscuits, variety of chocolate or fruit
cakes, quiches, tarts, pies, yummy pastries, salad
meals and still more. The oldest and most popular
bakeries in town are the Kayani Bakery and Royal
Bakery. The right time to visit these bakeries
is around 10.00 am or 4 p.m. That's when they
get freshly baked stuff in everyday. If you want
to buy Shrewsbury biscuits and plain cakes, then
Kayani is the place to go to, besides the array
of other biscuits and cakes and breads it offers.
Royal Bakery is the best bet for Brazil nut biscuits,
salted puffs and cheese fingers. Of course, it
has a variety of other popular bakery products
including its famous bread.
Just round the corner
The city has an underlying cosmopolitan ambience.
If you look a little hard, you might find a speciality
restaurant or a neat dhabha (by-the-street open
air eatery) round the corner serving Parsi, Sindhi,
Gujarati, South Indian, Goan, Kolhapuri or Rajasthani
food. If you fancy one, there's nothing like satiating
your taste buds with the lip smacking dishes served
there. So as the saying goes: When you are in
Pune: Have a good eat. And Bon Apetit!
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